Malawi adventure slowly coming to an end....

My time in Malawi for this extended period is slowly coming to an end. 6 weeks to go and time is becoming precious.  I know I will be back in Malawi (the place is addictive) but when and how I don't know.

What an amazing experience these last 18 months have been.  How does one sum up the experiences, the emotions and everything in between?

Someone asked me the other day what would I miss most about my time here. It most definitely will be the clients we have helped. Their smiles, their gratitude, their humbleness.

My favourite days are outreach days.  Post rainy season driving through the maize fields, looking at the tabacco hanging in the rafters of the huts are some of my favourite images.  The villages come alive during this period.  The dust has settled and life can be 'okay' during this time.  This is 'my Malawi'.  Waiting to assess each client that comes through the door.  What condition will they have?  Will be able to help? What will be the outcome?  They are exciting days.

Home will always be Brisbane but Malawi will always hold a special place and shape who I am today.  Life will be very different in 2 months time when this adventure is over and I start to look for the next one.  Returning to western society will be interesting and a different challenge all on its own.  Whether I'm there for a short period, pending the next job, life will certainly be different come June!

Must sees in Malawi

My time in Malawi is slowly coming to an end with only 11 working weeks to go and a lot is still needing to be done and a lot more to see.

The rains are slowly coming and Malawi becomes beautiful and green again.  Those that come during the middle of the year will never appreciate Malawi’s true beauty.  With the lake and it’s abundance of activities to the greenery of the mountains, the maize and other crops growing aplenty.  Still not at its produce optimum but definitely looking a lot better than November last year.

This weekend a group of friends and I took the 5hr journey from Lilongwe to Kande beach which is situated in the northern region above Nkhotakota right on the lake.   We booked a ride on the horses stationed there and I did 2 hours through the bush and then down onto the beach where we ‘swam’ with the horses.  An absolutely amazing experience and should be put on the bucket list for Malawi.  My love for horses increased when I cantered somewhat properly (true horsey people may beg to differ) for a considerable distance (for me anyway) and the adrenalin rush was amazing. To feel what it’s like to do it ‘properly’ without bouncing all over the place and also staying on! High 5 to me!  I can see why it’s addictive! Mum and Dad a horse for my birthday?!

It’s experiences like these that show the other side of Malawi.  In the north there are many places that I have not been to and I need to put Nyika on the list.  Unfortunately it might have to be for my return trip.  Other top places are the rubber plantation (truly spectacular), Nkhata Bay where the water is so blue and of course Mzuzu the coffee capital and the best Italian choc/coconut pana cotta I’ve ever tasted!

In the southern region there is the beautiful and stunning Cape Maclear where there is the best sun sets in Malawi.  The Zomba plateau with amazing views and another great horse riding place with views of old colonial cottages.

In the central region we have the local Senga Bay at the lake, Namitete Dam and Dedza mountain. 

The point of this blog is that Malawi has some amazing spots and there is so much more of the country to be explored.

Unfortunately tourism is decreasing due to the new introduction of the tourist visa payment and now the “wise” decision of the president to drill for oil will potentially destroy some of the most picturesque spots Malawi has to offer.  A country where the value of their Kwacha continues to fall daily, poverty increases and whilst the rains are here we need so much more in order for poverty and hunger to be kept at bay.

So if you’re thinking Africa for your next destination have a little think about the crystal blue waters of Nkhata Bay, or the mountains such as Mulanje that need to be climbed and the sunsets of Cape Mac that need to be seen.

2016...

A lot has happened in the last few weeks. 

A trip to the UK to see my brother and sister-in-law and some of my favourite people from my Scottish life, provided some wintery relief from the steaming summer Malawi is having.  The rainy season has started but still a long way to go.  With the rainy season however brings out the crazy critters.  The invasion of the flying termites was a night not to forget.  Ensure all orifices are closed otherwise your extra protein intake will be involuntary.  In my hair, in my bed and at customs I found them in my suitcase!  If it were in Australia I was sure to have been quarantined! Then there's the weird toad, tortoise, prawn eye creature.  What are you?!  (pictures below).

Prior to heading to the UK I went out to visit some of the children I sponsor.  A tough day with malnutrition, progressive TB and burns present all in one child.  The saving grace and the moment that brought tears to my eyes was Samson who reached for my hand and held it. He never engages in human contact except to slap people away.  I had brought maize flour for his mother to cook for him.  When I came back he told me he had eaten nsima and he was so happy.  This is the child that doesn't speak.  Words can't explain how humbled I was and how much love can pour out of me for a child that isn't mine.

That day was also a special day when we went to visit another child who had received devices from 500 miles.  She is now able to walk unassisted without devices.  Her fascination with me was captured in the photo below when she stroked my face and earrings. These days are special and ones I will never forget.

Another few days that I will never forget is my 2 days on a drip with an un-diagnosed stomach bug.  Wishing that my mum was there to stroke my hair and bring me chicken soup. Being sick away from family is something I don't wish to partake in ever again.

2016 will be a big year ahead for 500 miles.  So many more devices, so many new and old patients to engage with and bring mobility to their lives.  Stay tuned for more stories.

Malawian experiences

There are days driving along that you see things that are just ‘so Malawian’.  Some cultural treasures that make me smile and or shake my head. It’s all part of the experience.  There are times that I wish I had my camera at the front of my car to capture some of these moments as they often defy gravity, reality and common sense.

The common scene of someone cycling or pushing their bike for miles and miles laden with firewood twice the height of them, or cartons of eggs piled high bumbling along dirt roads all defying gravity but sheer determination of the individual to be able to get them home or to sell to at least get some profit in these tough economic times.  In Zomba going to the top of the mountain to collect their supplies and then slowly making their way back down with fire wood on their heads or bikes.  Amazing that gravity rarely wins.

I can also attend the ‘pet’ stores on the side of the road where I can buy dogs, rabbits and rather large turkeys on top of a man’s head.

The colour explosion of women washing or collecting water at the bore hole.  Each taking turns to fill their coloured buckets.  The stripe and spots combinations along with their chitenjis makes our Western sense of fashion cringe but here a beautiful expression of culture and vibrancy particularly at this time of year when everything is so dry and barren.

Driving through the villages and sometimes in town men all sitting round playing the game of boab where stones or natural seeds are placed into each beautifully carved hole.  Concentration and strategy is so important.

Recreation of our childhood western games and sports such as elastics and football utilizing string, plastic bags and bottles, on the dirt pitches bringing all children together. The list could go on.

There are also the Malawian things that are out of our control.  The 20hr power cuts, the lack of water, the smelly water, lack of rubbish bins and trucks all of which we have to learn to deal with and hope that progression to a healthier, more sustainable environment is on its way.

It has been a year since I moved to Malawi and each day has its trial and tribulations but each day also brings some great surprises.  Here’s to many more!

The things people don't tell you .....

Living in a country different to your own presents some challenges, some entertaining stories and some life lessons.  I thought I'd share a few with you.

• Riding in a minbus with animals is normal.
• Having a baby pee on you whilst on outreach is normal.
• Smiling at someone invites conversation and potential wedding proposals.
• Frill neck lizards are just as scary here as at home, especially when they are attached to your screen door.
• Having electricity in a 24hour period is something to celebrate.  Get your baking done!
• Having electricity and water at the same time makes you jump with joy!
• Despite not wanting avocados, mangos, bananas on a daily basis you will still be asked.  Turning off your engine does not invite a quick sale.  Pepani (sorry)!
• Sindikufuna (I don't want) is a helpful phrase!
• Creating your own road rules is essential to survival.
• Riding a bike or a motorbike with goods to sell is a balancing act and should be rewarded!
• Ordering food on a menu is not a guarantee that it will be available or what you have asked for.
• Just because I am white does not been I am a money tree (however it would be nice).
• Apparently men are like trees you can just pick one you know!
• Your stomach is an amazing organ.  It deals with some things (I won't go into details).
• Shaking hands with an enthusiastic CP child is very rewarding and humbling.  It can also be detrimental to your fingers!
• Mice on sticks regardless of culture will never be eaten by me!
• I appreciate that nsima or rice is a staple. There is no need for me to eat either for some time.
• My name is Beth however Bert, Bertha, Birth will also suffice for ease of conversation.
• White girls can't dance.
• Goats are unpredictable.
• Paying the equivalent of $15AUD for Vegemite or Timtams is really not acceptable!
• Being called fat is acceptable - it means I have money for food.  I appreciate you might be trying to say I need to loose a few kilos or that I am toned from the increase in exercise (I'm going with that option) but it is not acceptable to me!
• Working with kids is fun (who would've thought).  Working with kids who have a disability and receive a new limb and can now play football again that is the most rewarding experience of all.

Good byes, good stories, good changes.

It's been a few weeks since writing and I don't know where to begin.

Here as part of our clinic we have had an exchange program with FK Norway which have provided invaluable knowledge to our staff.  However the rotation ended this year and I said goodbye to some now very close friends.  Many tears ensued and my sanity levels may have dropped but with the absence of my Norwegian sister and Ernie my waist line is hopefully decreasing as our cake dates are no longer and her wonderful baking has gone back to Norway!  6 months and we will re-unite!  It gives me time to increase the swimming and running to prepare for more cake!

The clinic is still busy and we're seeing an average of 150 patients per month with over 100 devices.  There is never a dull moment.  We have seen some of our regulars recently.  One girl has made me smile continuously this week when she danced for me in gratitude for getting back her extension prosthesis as it needed repairs.  These cases is what it is all about.  There is obviously the flip side and we have seen some shocking burns and infections recently that really could have been prevented.  Burns awareness and education around fire safety is desperately needed.

We had a visit from the Scottish Minister for Europe & International Development.  Mr Humza Yousaf and his team engaged with the clinic and it was great to share our stories and also hear about the other Scottish Malawi Partnerships he was to see for the remainder of his trip.

It's not all work and no play.  2 gorgeous weekends at the lake both at Cape Mac and at Senga Bay.  Great company, good swimming and amazing fish! Oh to live by the lake!  Social events coming up in Lilongwe include breast cancer awareness walk, Lilongwe beer festival (where there will be beer other than Carlsberg served - hooray) and the Lilongwe colour run!

The past few weeks with interesting meetings, changes in staff and the odd cultural 'battle' that requires emphathy and understanding from my part as well as patience (A LOT OF PATIENCE) have tested me.  But in the words of Anne & Ailsa in Frozen ... LET IT GO!!!  Or another quote I saw recently was 'if it doesn't challenge you it won't change you'. I think my personal challenges have changed me - all for the better!

Waving not drowning

Since arriving back in Malawi I have hit the ground running.  Waving not drowning at present.  Is it time for a holiday yet?

The clinic has been exceptionally busy with our record number of patients and devices being made in August with September not far behind!  We have seen some amazing and heart breaking stories these last few weeks. Stories of refugees who have been kind enough to reveal their plight from their homeland to Malawi and how they have come to obtain their disabilities or inabilities.  A few gangrenous feet that I'd care not to discuss and finally a group of people who have suffered from leprosy and are finally obtaining appropriate shoes.  The smiles for this group in particular could not be wiped off their face.  Our staff have done an amazing job with producing devices with minimal equipment.  So very proud!

It hasn't all been work and no play though.  I was lucky enough to see Lady Blacksmith Mombazo the first weekend I arrived back in Malawi.  Absolutely talented group of men.  My childhood came rushing back to me with visions of Saturday morning house cleaning day and dancing to the record of Graceland with Lady Blacksmith supporting Paul Simon (kids these days records are large CDs).

I also ran in a triathlon at the beautiful location of Lake Malawi at Cape Maclear.  Great weekend despite running in 32deg heat.  This body is not made for running and anyone who knows my history of outdoor adventure races don't worry I came back unscathed!  Apparently some charming people (they claim to be friends) are signing me up for the 2017 Hawaii Marathon.  Tell them they're dreaming!

The next few weeks continue to be busy in the clinic and some fun outreaches are coming up again.  It's always great to see people again and see the progression of the devices.  Hopefully a few more success and smile stories as opposed to elephant's head in the sand stories!