Returning to the scene.....

I find myself back in Malawi, the warm heart of Africa, working again for 500 miles (www.500miles.co.uk).

My heart is happy as I walk through the door to familiar faces, clients anticipating the new sense of freedom and independence that orthotics and prosthetics bring to the individual, their families and the wider community.

This time being here is different.  So many changes yet so many things the same.  The opportunity for me to enhance the service delivery and build capacity is overwhelming yet it feels like home.  These types of roles is where I am meant to be .  Creating change, impacting the lives of those less fortunate but immersing myself within the culture, all be it minimally.  There is a long way to go and determining what can be achieved and sustained within a short time frame will be challenging.  But I am up for it!

My Chichewa is rusty but slowly coming back.  New phrases and the linguistics of it all rolling over my tongue bring me closer to being able to understand culturally and individually the necessities both for those within the clinic, staff and the wider community.  Friends and colleagues teaching me new phrases that at some point I will use correctly! Grass roots is where it is at!

But it's not all work and no play.  Within a few days of being in the country I managed to attend amazing feasts cooked by friends of old, fundraisers for Dzaleka refugee camp (where I also won a mini break to Likoma Island), mini trip south and have caught up with mentors and life long friends ensuring that the work life balance is almost complete.

There are new places, new infrastructure yet poverty and lack of amenities are still so prevalent.  My saving grace is that I only appear to have power cuts 2 nights a week - this I can plan for!  A structured powercut week means some planning has been established - small wins!  I am slowly becoming a whiz at one pot dishes with my 'cute' kitchen providing me with the basics required for wholesome cooking. 

The next few weeks ahead have a multitude of work challenges yet in between is a mini break at the beloved Lake Malawi in Senga Bay. 


Stay tuned for more stories!

Malawi to Zanzibar

From Malawi to Zanzibar my cultural senses are being put into overdrive. Another slice of Africa to explore!
I've taken 5 days out to see another part of Africa and to 'write my thesis'.  I hear you all laugh but I have been semi productive so far! 3 more days to go so time will tell!

I write this first bit sitting in an 'office' in the heart of Stone Town, Zanzibar. A predominantly Muslim community with a mix of indigenous Africans , Arab and middle eastern / Indian influence. It's like something out of the movies. Sitting in an office with rickety old chairs. Dust piled high. Men of importance wheeling and dealing inside and out of the office. A hive of conversation. None of which I understand. Do I need to understand?! The mix of languages and culture on an island of its own cultural significance makes my heart swell with excitement as well as nervousness. Very different level of 'angst' compared to my last  18 months.

Eventually my tour driver turns up and escorts me to a van parked under a wooden window shutter that had 2 sparrow like birds sitting on it. Totally Cinderella!

We then drove (at speeds not quite legal or safe) to pick up other people for the tour and our tour guide Muhammad. We traveled up the only hill on this side of the island to the spice farms. Honestly the best thing I've done in ages. A meander through the jungle to come across fresh turmeric, cardamon, ginger, pepper, cinnamon, vanilla, oranges, grapefruit, star fruit and many more. All of which we could eat fresh. Amazing! The tour was finished off with spiced rice, tomato and coconut Veges and local spinach. So full of flavour - I am going to experiment with my rice!

I returned back to town via local bus as I was only doing the half day. I recouped and headed into the township to wander through the streets and find some happy pants. I was absconded by an older man who wanted me to see his spice shop. I said I'm shopping so he showed me the streets and then I went to his spice shop. Love the back alleys and the finds!! I need another suitcase so I reigned it in and kept to the schedule!

Back to the hotel and told myself I have to write for an hour so I did. Shower had and headed to find seafood! Amazing! Fish, prawns & fresh calamari with masala spices and vege! Taste bud explosion!
Finished off my taste explosion with a Nutella Zanzibar pizza at the night markets!

Back to the room to read. Drink fresh mint tea and dream of tomorrow’s adventures!  

I woke the next morning with excitement of the Stone Town tour that was to ensue!

My brain hurts from cultural overflow. I did a 3hr walking tour this morning that went through the history of the island, the slave trade, the various sultans & cultural nuances specific to Zanzibar.

We meandered through the local food market where I saw the largest bananas I have ever seen. No that is not a euphamism! Seriously these things were as long as watermelons and fat like giant courgettes (zucchinis).  We then went through the fish market where the stench wasn't as bad as the meat section. I would've become a vegetarian if I had to go through there!

We wandered through various streets, soaking in the various characters of Stone Town. The mix of women and men of Muslim faith as well as the children coming back from Madrassa was a hive of activity and I felt so very white! Watching the children with their small change bartering for sweets was like something out of a an Arab movie. I keep waiting for action to occur. I am so stereotypical and have watched too much Homeland or something!

The peaceful nature of this island doesn't begin to describe it. I'm less fearful here even compared to Malawi which is strange.

The old slave market threw me a little bit. To see where people were captured and held and to hear of their ‘worth’ with it only ceasing in 1873 sent shivers down my spine. This David Livingstone was a bloody legend! He was like the Nelson Mandela of his time only white and Scottish!

We went to a variety of buildings that were owned by Arabs and decorated in interesting architecture . I was absorbing every inch! Around every corner there was something else to absorb. Walking tours are underrated and given I had a private one just me and Muhummid he earnt his pay and then some!

After 3hrs or so I had a quick bite to eat before being collected by my driver and taken to Matemwe on the far north east coast to Azanzi Beach Hotel. Paradise! The room I'm staying in is decadent. I am completely in another world! White sandy beaches, cocktails, Maasai men on the grass - I have entered another time. Another cultural haven. Perfect writing environment.

Another hour or so of writing was completed and now lying on the sand soaking up the wind , ready for the next few hours of dinner and more writing.

Malawi adventure slowly coming to an end....

My time in Malawi for this extended period is slowly coming to an end. 6 weeks to go and time is becoming precious.  I know I will be back in Malawi (the place is addictive) but when and how I don't know.

What an amazing experience these last 18 months have been.  How does one sum up the experiences, the emotions and everything in between?

Someone asked me the other day what would I miss most about my time here. It most definitely will be the clients we have helped. Their smiles, their gratitude, their humbleness.

My favourite days are outreach days.  Post rainy season driving through the maize fields, looking at the tabacco hanging in the rafters of the huts are some of my favourite images.  The villages come alive during this period.  The dust has settled and life can be 'okay' during this time.  This is 'my Malawi'.  Waiting to assess each client that comes through the door.  What condition will they have?  Will be able to help? What will be the outcome?  They are exciting days.

Home will always be Brisbane but Malawi will always hold a special place and shape who I am today.  Life will be very different in 2 months time when this adventure is over and I start to look for the next one.  Returning to western society will be interesting and a different challenge all on its own.  Whether I'm there for a short period, pending the next job, life will certainly be different come June!

Must sees in Malawi

My time in Malawi is slowly coming to an end with only 11 working weeks to go and a lot is still needing to be done and a lot more to see.

The rains are slowly coming and Malawi becomes beautiful and green again.  Those that come during the middle of the year will never appreciate Malawi’s true beauty.  With the lake and it’s abundance of activities to the greenery of the mountains, the maize and other crops growing aplenty.  Still not at its produce optimum but definitely looking a lot better than November last year.

This weekend a group of friends and I took the 5hr journey from Lilongwe to Kande beach which is situated in the northern region above Nkhotakota right on the lake.   We booked a ride on the horses stationed there and I did 2 hours through the bush and then down onto the beach where we ‘swam’ with the horses.  An absolutely amazing experience and should be put on the bucket list for Malawi.  My love for horses increased when I cantered somewhat properly (true horsey people may beg to differ) for a considerable distance (for me anyway) and the adrenalin rush was amazing. To feel what it’s like to do it ‘properly’ without bouncing all over the place and also staying on! High 5 to me!  I can see why it’s addictive! Mum and Dad a horse for my birthday?!

It’s experiences like these that show the other side of Malawi.  In the north there are many places that I have not been to and I need to put Nyika on the list.  Unfortunately it might have to be for my return trip.  Other top places are the rubber plantation (truly spectacular), Nkhata Bay where the water is so blue and of course Mzuzu the coffee capital and the best Italian choc/coconut pana cotta I’ve ever tasted!

In the southern region there is the beautiful and stunning Cape Maclear where there is the best sun sets in Malawi.  The Zomba plateau with amazing views and another great horse riding place with views of old colonial cottages.

In the central region we have the local Senga Bay at the lake, Namitete Dam and Dedza mountain. 

The point of this blog is that Malawi has some amazing spots and there is so much more of the country to be explored.

Unfortunately tourism is decreasing due to the new introduction of the tourist visa payment and now the “wise” decision of the president to drill for oil will potentially destroy some of the most picturesque spots Malawi has to offer.  A country where the value of their Kwacha continues to fall daily, poverty increases and whilst the rains are here we need so much more in order for poverty and hunger to be kept at bay.

So if you’re thinking Africa for your next destination have a little think about the crystal blue waters of Nkhata Bay, or the mountains such as Mulanje that need to be climbed and the sunsets of Cape Mac that need to be seen.

2016...

A lot has happened in the last few weeks. 

A trip to the UK to see my brother and sister-in-law and some of my favourite people from my Scottish life, provided some wintery relief from the steaming summer Malawi is having.  The rainy season has started but still a long way to go.  With the rainy season however brings out the crazy critters.  The invasion of the flying termites was a night not to forget.  Ensure all orifices are closed otherwise your extra protein intake will be involuntary.  In my hair, in my bed and at customs I found them in my suitcase!  If it were in Australia I was sure to have been quarantined! Then there's the weird toad, tortoise, prawn eye creature.  What are you?!  (pictures below).

Prior to heading to the UK I went out to visit some of the children I sponsor.  A tough day with malnutrition, progressive TB and burns present all in one child.  The saving grace and the moment that brought tears to my eyes was Samson who reached for my hand and held it. He never engages in human contact except to slap people away.  I had brought maize flour for his mother to cook for him.  When I came back he told me he had eaten nsima and he was so happy.  This is the child that doesn't speak.  Words can't explain how humbled I was and how much love can pour out of me for a child that isn't mine.

That day was also a special day when we went to visit another child who had received devices from 500 miles.  She is now able to walk unassisted without devices.  Her fascination with me was captured in the photo below when she stroked my face and earrings. These days are special and ones I will never forget.

Another few days that I will never forget is my 2 days on a drip with an un-diagnosed stomach bug.  Wishing that my mum was there to stroke my hair and bring me chicken soup. Being sick away from family is something I don't wish to partake in ever again.

2016 will be a big year ahead for 500 miles.  So many more devices, so many new and old patients to engage with and bring mobility to their lives.  Stay tuned for more stories.

Malawian experiences

There are days driving along that you see things that are just ‘so Malawian’.  Some cultural treasures that make me smile and or shake my head. It’s all part of the experience.  There are times that I wish I had my camera at the front of my car to capture some of these moments as they often defy gravity, reality and common sense.

The common scene of someone cycling or pushing their bike for miles and miles laden with firewood twice the height of them, or cartons of eggs piled high bumbling along dirt roads all defying gravity but sheer determination of the individual to be able to get them home or to sell to at least get some profit in these tough economic times.  In Zomba going to the top of the mountain to collect their supplies and then slowly making their way back down with fire wood on their heads or bikes.  Amazing that gravity rarely wins.

I can also attend the ‘pet’ stores on the side of the road where I can buy dogs, rabbits and rather large turkeys on top of a man’s head.

The colour explosion of women washing or collecting water at the bore hole.  Each taking turns to fill their coloured buckets.  The stripe and spots combinations along with their chitenjis makes our Western sense of fashion cringe but here a beautiful expression of culture and vibrancy particularly at this time of year when everything is so dry and barren.

Driving through the villages and sometimes in town men all sitting round playing the game of boab where stones or natural seeds are placed into each beautifully carved hole.  Concentration and strategy is so important.

Recreation of our childhood western games and sports such as elastics and football utilizing string, plastic bags and bottles, on the dirt pitches bringing all children together. The list could go on.

There are also the Malawian things that are out of our control.  The 20hr power cuts, the lack of water, the smelly water, lack of rubbish bins and trucks all of which we have to learn to deal with and hope that progression to a healthier, more sustainable environment is on its way.

It has been a year since I moved to Malawi and each day has its trial and tribulations but each day also brings some great surprises.  Here’s to many more!

The things people don't tell you .....

Living in a country different to your own presents some challenges, some entertaining stories and some life lessons.  I thought I'd share a few with you.

• Riding in a minbus with animals is normal.
• Having a baby pee on you whilst on outreach is normal.
• Smiling at someone invites conversation and potential wedding proposals.
• Frill neck lizards are just as scary here as at home, especially when they are attached to your screen door.
• Having electricity in a 24hour period is something to celebrate.  Get your baking done!
• Having electricity and water at the same time makes you jump with joy!
• Despite not wanting avocados, mangos, bananas on a daily basis you will still be asked.  Turning off your engine does not invite a quick sale.  Pepani (sorry)!
• Sindikufuna (I don't want) is a helpful phrase!
• Creating your own road rules is essential to survival.
• Riding a bike or a motorbike with goods to sell is a balancing act and should be rewarded!
• Ordering food on a menu is not a guarantee that it will be available or what you have asked for.
• Just because I am white does not been I am a money tree (however it would be nice).
• Apparently men are like trees you can just pick one you know!
• Your stomach is an amazing organ.  It deals with some things (I won't go into details).
• Shaking hands with an enthusiastic CP child is very rewarding and humbling.  It can also be detrimental to your fingers!
• Mice on sticks regardless of culture will never be eaten by me!
• I appreciate that nsima or rice is a staple. There is no need for me to eat either for some time.
• My name is Beth however Bert, Bertha, Birth will also suffice for ease of conversation.
• White girls can't dance.
• Goats are unpredictable.
• Paying the equivalent of $15AUD for Vegemite or Timtams is really not acceptable!
• Being called fat is acceptable - it means I have money for food.  I appreciate you might be trying to say I need to loose a few kilos or that I am toned from the increase in exercise (I'm going with that option) but it is not acceptable to me!
• Working with kids is fun (who would've thought).  Working with kids who have a disability and receive a new limb and can now play football again that is the most rewarding experience of all.